Building A Basic Tween Skincare Routine: A Step-By-Step Guide

Last March, I volunteered on a field trip with my 11-year-old son’s class. Helping chaperone 25 tweens from mid- to downtown Toronto is no mean feat. Hopping on streetcars, buses and subways, all while doing continuous headcounts, isn't for the faint of heart. But what stopped me in my tracks was that at every point in the journey where one could sit, a group of about five girls pulled out their compacts, lotions, eyelash curlers, hairbrushes and makeup and began mini beauty sessions. The much-discussed Sephora-girl or #SkinTok beauty trend had come to life before my very eyes. My son looked at them, then looked at me, then rolled his eyes.

Truth be told, I was a little judgy. When I look back on it now, I realize that these girls were unabashedly taking control of their self-care. (Even if reapplying mascara three times a day is totally unnecessary—they were still learning.) And now that my son’s a tween, there’s no reason he shouldn’t partake in a skincare ritual too. Experts agree that a good routine is simple, effective and doesn’t need to take longer than tooth-brushing (unless you want it to).

The tween years and why skincare matters

Puberty brings a surge of hormones that affect the skin. This can be frustrating, especially when tweens are likely just starting to pay more attention to their appearance. The accompanying increase in oil production can lead to pimples, blackheads, and shiny skin.

“Not only is this normal, but it is actually expected. Over 80 percent of young adults and teenagers will get acne, so it’s almost out of the ordinary if you never do,” says Dr. Annie Liu, dermatologist and co-founder of DermCafe, an OHIP-covered online dermatology clinic in Canada. Though she does say it’s never too early to strive for healthy skin.

Keep it simple

As parents, we begin showing our children how to protect their skin by slathering them with sunscreen. If you're lucky, your child will stay still during the process, but even if you have to chase them down, they begin to understand that it's a thing you always do, like brushing your teeth.

Although there isn’t a hard and fast rule about when to start a skincare routine, most dermatologists will say that simplicity is the best course if starting in the tween years. The regimen need not move beyond the following: a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and sweat; a fragrance-free moisturizer; and an SPF-30 sunscreen.

Building an effective tween skincare routine

When it comes to young skin, less is more. Here are the essential steps for a healthy and simple skincare routine for tweens.

Cleansing

Dr. Kelsey A. Orrell, a dermatologist at Dermatelier on Avenue in Toronto, recommends that tweens use a cleanser both in the morning and at night to remove "all the environmental kinds of allergens and things that touch their face throughout the day.” Look for labels that say ‘mild’, ‘fragrance-free’, or ‘hypoallergenic’, and avoid products that list harsh sulfates, fragrances, and alcohol in their ingredients.

Look for:

• A gentle, hydrating cleanser for twice a day.
• If your tween has acne, Dr. Orrell recommends using a gentle active cleanser containing four percent benzoyl peroxide once a day.

Avoid:

• Foaming cleansers, which can strip the skin of moisture.
• Products that contain oils, which Orrell says can “induce acne” for acne-prone adolescents.

Products to try

CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser; La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermo Facial Cleanser; Cetaphil Hydrating Gentle Skin Cleanser

Moisturizing

A gentle moisturizer in your tween’s skincare routine can help prevent dryness and keep their skin feeling hydrated.

Look for:

• Creams or lotions that are hypoallergenic and non-irritating.
• Moisturizers that include sunscreen for protection during the day.

Avoid:

• Moisturizers that contain fragrance, which can potentially cause irritation to the skin.

Products to try

CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion; La Roche Posay Toleriane Double Repair Facial Moisturizer with SPF; Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Crème

Sunscreen

“The best sunscreen is the one your kids will use,” says dermatologist Dr. Renita Ahluwalia of the Canadian Dermatology Centre. Which is to say, that the more expensive brands or ones touted on TikTok shouldn’t be a deciding factor when purchasing.

Dr. Ahluwalia suggests looking for an SPF 30 with broad-spectrum coverage, meaning it covers both UVA and UVB rays. There are so many options at lots of different price points. I find that my sons love the Unseen Sunscreen by the brand Supergoop! because of how lightweight it is. But it’s got a pretty hefty price point, so when it’s done, drugstore brands here we come. If your tween is acne-prone, look for products specifically for the face.

Higher SPFs don’t equal an increased level of protection. Dr. Liu says parents shouldn’t feel pressured to purchase sunscreen higher than level 30, although lower than 30 isn’t advisable. With warm weather comes sweating and swimming, so select a water-resistant sunscreen, which usually has a number beside it, like 40 or 80. This indicates the number of minutes that it is resistant to water.

How much sunscreen is needed? Dr. Liu points to the ‘two-finger method’ for applying sunscreen. “When you’re wondering about how much sunscreen to put on, it works out to a whole shot glass for the body. So, if you divide it up, it’s about a tablespoon for the face. If you take two fingers and squeeze a line of sunscreen on each and apply it to the face, that should ensure you’re getting enough,” she says.

Help your tween understand that sunscreen should be non-negotiable. It helps prevent sun damage, reduces the risk of skin cancer later on, and protects against premature aging and fine lines. It's important to apply it even on overcast days.

Look for:

• The Canadian Dermatology Association recommends choosing a product with a minimum SPF of 30.
• A good sunscreen should protect against both ultraviolet B (UVB) and ultraviolet A (UVA) rays.

Avoid:

• Heavily perfumed sunscreens.
• Products that can clog pores.

Products to try

EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46; CeraVe Ultra Light Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30; Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen SPF 50

The bottom line

Ultimately, for the majority of tweens, keeping things basic and easy will set them up with good habits to last a lifetime. Looking back on my Gen X upbringing and remembering frolicking at the beach with zero sunscreen, I shudder. And so do my wrinkles. So, let’s teach our kids to cleanse, moisturize and apply sunscreen after they brush their teeth or whenever makes sense for them. A simple skincare routine is all we need to keep our tweens healthy on the long journey of life.

Experts

• Dr. Annie Liu is a dermatologist and co-founder of DermCafe, an OHIP-covered online dermatology clinic in Canada.
• Dr. Kelsey A. Orrell is a dermatologist at Dermatelier on Avenue in Toronto.
• Dr. Renita Ahluwalia is a dermatologist at the Canadian Dermatology Centre.