Why Your Tween's Sudden Skincare Obsession Matters

For over a year, we’ve watched countless TikToks with tweens showing off their pricey skincare purchases and heard from dermatologists ringing warning bells about the perils for young, sensitive complexions. All the while us parents have collectively sat back, hoping the problem will simply disappear, like the suds from a Drunk Elephant face wash swirling the drain.

But, as it turns out, this trend isn’t going anywhere. In fact, our tweens seem to be getting more interested in their masks, creams and serums—not the other way around. And even younger kids are getting in on the trend. So much so that a beauty-product-inspired slime is poised to be a new must-have toy.

So, should we be worried about our skincare-obsessed pre-teens? And what’s the parent of a “Sephora Kid” to do?

Instead of ignoring our kids’ interest in skincare, it’s time to help them shape it into a healthy routine that will care for their complexions now and in the future, says Dr. Monica Li, a Vancouver-based dermatologist and clinical instructor at the University of British Columbia’s Department of Dermatology and Skin Science. “This is an opportunity for parents, caregivers and dermatologists to have healthy discussions about good skin hygiene practices and habits,” she says.

Why is tween skincare suddenly so popular?

One reason for the rise in interest in everything from face washes to moisturizers is that kids are facing puberty and hormone-induced skin changes earlier than ever. Research conducted in dozens of countries has confirmed that the age of puberty in girls has been dropping by about three months per decade since the 1970s. (A similar but less extreme pattern has been tracked in boys.) And we know that as kids hop on the hormonal rollercoaster, they experience changes in their skin’s microbiome, barrier function and sebum production. Studies have shown that as estrogen and progesterone fluctuate, skin reacts by creating more sebum, which disrupts the skin barrier and leads to acne. Newfound breakouts are bound to spur an interest in skincare.

But let’s be honest: that alone is not driving Drunk Elephant’s cult-like following among tweens, or kids’ urge to create “beauty haul” videos from their Sephora spree. Pre-teens are more invested in their complexions than ever before due to, at least in part, the bombardment of marketing messaging they are seeing on TikTok, Instagram and YouTube.

“It seems that female tweens in particular have fallen prey to believing they need a seven-step skincare routine,” says Dr. Renée A. Beach, dermatologist and founder of DermAtelier on Avenue in Toronto. “It’s both unbelievable and unfortunate, but here we are.”

The potential drawbacks of tween skincare obsession

There are a few, beginning with the fact that a budding skincare obsession can cause damage to young complexions. “In many cases, they are using products that are both unnecessary and ineffective for their skin at this life stage,” says Beach. “In the worst-case scenario, it can actually irritate or damage the skin,” she says.

If tweens are reaching for brightening, exfoliating and anti-aging products designed for mature skin, for example, those can cause issues. And, if they are layering multiple active ingredients in an overzealous 10-step routine, that can quickly pose problems for their delicate complexions. Beach has had pre-teen patients who have developed a type of pseudo-acne, known as periorificial dermatitis, induced by heavily formulated products. “Now they are having to use prescription medications to improve a problem that was avoidable in the first place,” she says. Kids can also end up with contact dermatitis, allergic dermatitis, or other unpleasant reactions.

But the issue with the trend goes beyond skin deep. “Imagine being 11 years old and obsessing about your skin and feeling like you cannot go outside because you can see your pores,” says Beach. Having visible pores is normal for people of all ages, of course, but some of the beauty standards that kids see online and are trying to live up to are not.

And then there’s the financial piece of the puzzle. “The costs of some of the coveted or trendy products can be upwards of $50 or more for one product,” says Li. That can put unnecessary pressure on parents to pony up the cash for a must-have cream or face mask, as their kids try to keep up with the trends. And it can leave those who can’t foot those bills feeling left out. 

Are there any benefits to tween skincare?

Yes! We can find a silver lining here. If your preteen is curious about their skin and skincare products, it’s a great time to start introducing healthy habits. “Interest in skincare among tweens presents an opportunity for a discussion with younger consumers about the importance of a consistent skincare routine to support healthy skin,” says Li. Supporting a healthy skin barrier, boosting hydration and protecting the skin from the sun are all key benefits to tweens interested in skincare. “And an earlier start provides preventative benefits long-term,” she says.

How to talk to your tween about skincare

Start with a discussion about how skincare is another piece of the hygiene and self-care routine they’ve already started building. Just like showering, washing their hair and brushing their teeth, washing their face, moisturizing and applying sunscreen is part of taking care of their body. Instead of leaning on social media posts or letting them run wild in a Sephora store to experiment with serums, creams and lotions, try shopping for products together. This way, you can help them to understand what different products are designed to do, which ones they need (and which ones they don’t require) and discuss the costs of the various options, too. 

A conversation about skincare is also a great springboard for a chat about healthy self-image. As we know, acne can be deeply tied to self-esteem, so they may have big feelings about their breakouts, as well as their changing appearance in general, as they move through the early stages of puberty. “It’s also about embracing who we are as we are, and celebrating our unique individual natural inner and outer beauty,” says Li.

Building a healthy and age-appropriate tween skincare routine

With so many different products available, it can be confusing for parents to know what’s safe and appropriate for their kids’ skin. But the cornerstones of tween skincare are pretty simple: cleansing, moisturizing and sun protection. 

Start with a gentle cleanser in any texture that appeals to them. Some kids prefer the feel of a bar, gel, or foam, for example. If they notice that their skin is getting oily throughout the day or that they are developing blackheads and breakouts, swapping to a cleanser with salicylic acid will often do the trick.

Next, they will need a lightweight moisturizer. Oily skin will do best with a lightweight gel, while something creamier can work for drier skin. And then, they will need a sunscreen with broad-spectrum coverage (which means it protects against both UVA and UVB rays) and sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30. Products with either chemical or mineral UV filters are good options, though chemical-based sunscreens can be more irritating for highly sensitive skin. Some facial moisturizers contain SPF, which can simplify things by combining two steps into one, but only if your tween is applying the product generously enough to get the promised protection. 

In general, opt for brands that have been tested and formulated for young skin, advises Li. “They tend to contain milder or gentler ingredients, are hypoallergenic (allergy tested) and specifically monitored for tolerability with use in these populations,” she says.

What ingredients should be avoided?

Thanks to #SkinTok, kids are familiar with a lot of ingredients, but many of them are not appropriate for young skin. “Trending products containing retinol and AHA/BHAs are best to avoid in tween consumers due to their high potency and effects, and risk of irritation,” says Li. If your budding teenager is struggling with breakouts, a dermatologist may recommend something with retinol, but it’s best not to experiment with these types of products without the guidance of a doctor. Using vitamin C should also be avoided because it poses a risk of increased sensitivity to the sun.

While not all trending serums, creams and lotions are harmful for tweens, some of the actives in your favourite products are just unnecessary for your kid’s skin. The acids and antioxidants that help your complexion to shed dead skin cells, boost collagen and promote cellular regeneration are superfluous because young skin is already plump and functioning optimally. 

That said, some buzzy ingredients are also just fine for young skin. Hyaluronic acid, for example, which acts like a sponge to pull hydration to the outer layer of the skin, is popular on social media and not problematic for tweens to use. Likewise, niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 (which adults love for its soothing effects), is also unlikely to pose problems for pre-teen consumers.

The bottom line

If your youngster is fixated on skincare, your best bet is to lean in and turn this into a teaching moment. Get them started on a healthy skincare routine, and have a conversation about their changing body, including their complexion. 

Experts

• Dr. Renée Beach, dermatologist and founder of DermAtelier on Avenue in Toronto.
• Dr. Monica Li, a Vancouver-based dermatologist and clinical instructor at the University of British Columbia’s Department of Dermatology and Skin Science.