What to do, where to stay and definitely what to eat in la belle province.
Ever since we returned from our trip to Quebec City and Charlevoix (hosted by Bonjour Quebec), my nine-year-old has been asking to spend more time doing things as a family. While vacations can certainly bring people together, sometimes getting home can be a relief. But this trip felt different.
Although we spent three of our five nights sleeping in one hotel room (my husband and I each sharing a bed with a kid) and there was the usual bickering, our Quebec adventures felt special. Everyone tried new foods and new experiences and gave each other a bit more slack.
Why did Quebec City and the Charlevoix region have this effect? I think it's because there's so much to do without the pressure of having to do it all. And sometimes our activity was wandering and seeing where we ended up. Whether we found a beautiful fountain in the centre of old Quebec or an amazing ice cream and candy shop in Baie-Saint-Paul, we were never disappointed. Here are 15 things to do that will make your experience just as memorable.
There are plenty of hotels to choose from, both in the old city and outside of it. We stayed at the Hilton Québec. Just on the other side of the old city's walls, the Hilton is a short walk to the cobblestone streets, the historic citadel and the Plains of Abraham.
The rooms are bright, clean and modern, and many have amazing views. There's an outdoor pool that's open year-round thanks to its indoor entrance. Simply swim under or push through the plastic barrier and enjoy the heated water even in winter. Upgrade for access to the executive lounge where a delicious buffet breakfast is served each morning (included in your stay) and where you can enjoy cocktails in the evening.
There's a free games room and arcade on the main floor and kids are given bracelets with little coupons to pull off and redeem for a juice box, candy and a popsicle.
One of the best parts of travelling to Quebec is the food. There was not a meal I didn't love or a dessert that wasn't worth popping a Lactaid for (my whole family is lactose intolerant).
While poutine is always worth eating, there's more to Quebec's cuisine than fries, gravy and cheese curds. Originally inspired by French cooking in the 17th century, the province's fare evolved along with the local climate and ingredients. We ate the first meal of our trip at La Bûche, a fun eatery in old Quebec that looks like a log cabin inside with long wooden tables and plaid tablecloths. Toboggans and snowshoes are fixed to the ceiling and the unisex bathrooms are in what feels like an old cellar. The walls are covered in graffiti and you wash your hands over a clawfoot tub in the middle of the room. My kids loved adding their names to the bathroom doors.
And while the atmosphere alone is worth a visit, the food is even better. We tried salmon tartare, traditional pea soup and Pâté Chinois, Quebec's version of shepherd's pie with creamy mashed potatoes, Bacon, Red-Wine-Braised Beef and Fruit Ketchup.
We arrived in Quebec on my son's birthday so for dessert, we were treated to Pouding du Chômeur. Translated, it means "poor man's pudding". First created during the Great Depression, the dish originally included only four ingredients: flour, butter, milk and brown sugar. At La Bûche, it's served along with ice cream, which believe it or not, helps counter the super sweet cake.
Ciel! Bistro Bar is a rotating restaurant on the 28th floor of Hotel le Concorde Quebec. Just off Grande-Allée, where you can find some of the city's trendiest restaurants and bars, Ciel! serves upscale fare with scenic 360-degree views. While you eat, the restaurant slowly rotates so you get to see the city from every angle—and the view only improves with the sunset and as the sky darkens and the city lights up. One full rotation takes about an hour and a half, which is perfect timing, particularly when dining with kids who can only sit for so long.
My nine-year-old chose not to order from the kids' menu (which is great and includes sausage and veggies, fish of the day or pasta with bolognese sauce), instead opting for the Organic chicken ballotine. When his plate was clean, he declared "Now that's a meal!" The pork chop, swordfish tataki and Oreo dessert were also delicious.
What makes old Quebec City so special are its walls. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Quebec City was the capital of New France. To protect against British attacks, the city was fortified with a stone wall. Walking through the cobblestone streets, you'll see historic architecture, walk under and over beautiful arched bridges and see (and sit on if you want) old cannons.
No trip to Quebec City is complete without visiting the Citadel. Not only is it the largest British fortress in North America—founded in the mid-to-late 17th century when the British took over, but it's also the current home of the Canadian military's Royal 22nd Regiment.
Because it's an active military site, you'll need to buy tickets for a guided tour. There's also a great little museum with interactive exhibits my kids loved. And of course, a gift shop where you can buy replica tanks and other military paraphernalia.
Do your kids like parkour? After your tour, wander across the highest point of the wall and—at your own risk—peer over the edge and jump over the gaps in the walls where cannons sit.
There are plenty of fascinating walking tours available in old Quebec but getting your Gen-Z-er to participate is another story. Learn some history while indulging older kids' interest in all things spooky with a nighttime ghost tour. The appropriately costumed guides at Les Promenades Fantômes share some of the darker tales from Quebec's past, including crimes, arrests and executions.
While Quebec certainly gets cold in the winter, it's not quite arctic. But you can visit members of this vulnerable species at the Aquarium du Québec. About 20 minutes away from the old city, the aquarium boasts more than 10,000 animals from about 300 species, including polar bears, seals, exotic fish and jellyfish.
The Charlevoix region is about 6000 square kilometres and its terrain along the St. Lawrence was shaped by a meteorite four million years ago. It's part of the Canadian Shield and features pastoral farmland, bays, fjords and mountains. It's a short drive from Quebec City or you can take a train (see below).
We stayed in one of the region's seven municipalities, Baie Saint Paul. I loved BSP's logo so much, I bought a sweatshirt at our hotel and inn, Domaine Belle Plage.
While the accommodation on the bay has hotel and motel rooms, it also has beautiful private apartments. Ours had a digital pinball machine, which needless to say, was a hit with my kids. We had two bedrooms, each with a king-size bed, one with an ensuite bathroom, a big kitchen, dining room and living room. The bedrooms and living room had TVs.
After a couple of nights in a hotel, it was nice to spread out a bit. The grounds include a playground, bocce ball court and an outdoor pool and it has a lovely, very Canadian view of the bay. And the restaurant in the main building serves an amazing, indulgent breakfast. My kids were happy eating waffles with whipped cream each morning.
Enjoy local fare while playing board games at Mousse Café in Baie-Saint-Paul. Order delicious salads, baked goods and sandwiches that are suitable for many dietary restrictions. While there are games available to play at the cafe, we bought a charming little card game called Misty. We played it there, on the Train de Charlevoix and again a few times throughout our trip.
The Charlevoix region produces fruit, vegetables, lots of cheese, wine and meat, so your meals are likely made up of foods grown within 50 km. Le Bercail at Hotel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix specializes in simple yet delicious fare, much of it sourced from the hotel's own farm and the surrounding area. Try a pizza with Charlevoix blue cheese, a charcuterie board featuring local smoked meat or spaghetti bolognese with highland beef from the hotel's pastures.
Going out for dinner with kids can be a challenge. Picky eaters and kids who just won't stay still can challenge even the most patient of parents—and diners. The menu at L'Orange Bistro feels special but includes enough kid favourites to keep everyone happy (chicken or fish nuggets, spaghetti with meat sauce or butter). Plus, the atmosphere is casual enough that a raucous game of MadLibs won't ruffle any feathers.
Little kids love train rides (big ones do too, if you buy them snacks, put them in charge of photography and bring a card game). The Train de Charlevoix is a small passenger train that travels along the St. Lawrence from Quebec City to Baie-Saint-Paul, from Baie-Saint-Paul to Malbaie or from Quebec City to Malbaie. They serve wine, charcuterie, chips and other refreshments and it's a nice escape with scenic views.
Le Massif de Charlevoix is a ski hill that offers year-round activities. We loved L'Oiseau Mécanique, an immersive art installation with light and music that you enjoy from the ski lift in the summer. In the fall, you can go mountain biking, hiking, ride the gondola to take in the fall colours or even go canyoning, which means climbing waterfalls, sliding down natural waterslides and exploring clear pools (in a wet suit). In winter, non-skiers can enjoy cross-country skiing and sledding.
Explore virtual shipwrecks, see one of the oldest wooden schooners and (if you speak French) enjoy an escape game in the great outdoors. The Maritime Museum of Charlevoix offers exhibits and activities beyond the expected. There's even a walking trail and a ropes course. Kids of all ages will love the interactive game that tests their sailing abilities.
Seeing humpback whales, belugas and harbour seals in the St. Lawrence with my amazed kids is something I'll never forget. Croisières AML offers nine different cruises leaving from Charlevoix, including VIP options and zodiac trips (smaller boats, closer to the water). Whether you're on the bigger boat or the zodiac, dress warmly—even in the summer. It's cold on the St. Lawrence and you'll need long pants, a sweatshirt and rain jacket to be comfortable.
The tours take about three hours and while they can't guarantee that you'll see whales, the likelihood is pretty high. Plus, if you don't see any, you can book another tour for free. There are bathrooms, a gift shop and snack bar aboard the boat and three different decks to for spotting wildlife.
Need a snack on the drive from Baie-Saint-Paul to Baie-Saint-Catherine (where you board your boat)? Stop at Café Chez Nous in Malbaie for a delicious sandwich.
Saint-Jean-Baptiste Street in Baie-Saint-Paul is a picturesque road that looks straight out of a Hallmark movie. It has sweet gift shops, art galleries and sweet shops with delicious pastries, candy and ice cream. Visit Cidrerie des Vergers Pedneault for apple, pear and plum beverages, both alcoholic and non. Hydromel Charlevoix makes honey, wine and spirits, all from local bee hives. Buy handmade soap from Quai des Bulles. Finally, have a nice lunch at Café Arômes & Saveurs. Order a chicken salad and homemade cookie and you'll have enough food for at least two family members.
Keep up with your baby's development, get the latest parenting content and receive special offers from our partners
Vanessa Grant is the executive editor at Today's Parent. A journalist and mom to two spirited boys, she knows more about Minecraft and Pokémon than she ever thought she would. She loves working on lifestyle content and learns something new with every story.