Toronto

Lady Marmalade
898 Queen St East
(647) 351-7645
ladymarmalade.ca

Sunday morning at Lady Marmalade, and it feels like we’ve stepped back into the ’60s. Cheerful apple green walls, formica-topped tables, a sunburst clock, Hardy Boys books at the open kitchen counter, and tin ceiling tiles all emanate retro chic.

Six-year-old Renee, however, doesn’t care much for the funky vibe. “The chairs don’t match Mom,” she whispers to me as the server leads us to our table. She discovers the ceramic salt and pepper shakers, and it is not long before she notices that each table has a different pair.

But the mishmash of vintage finds is the perfect backdrop against the Lady’s diverse brunch options. Toronto transplants Carla Cherry and brother David Cherry opened their first Lady Marmalade in Victoria BC in 2005. Known for its eggs Benedict and Mexican-inspired breakfast dishes, it soon became a brunch hotspot. In 2009 David moved back to Toronto, and with girlfriend Natalia Simachkevitch, opened this second location in Leslieville.

I choose the Huevos Migas ($10.95) — a twist on the classic Mexican breakfast, which like all the Bennie dishes, comes with potatoes, a choice of salad or fresh tomatoes and lemony hollandaise. Flavourful and filling, it’s also secretly healthy with a mix of protein (eggs and beans), greens and whole grain carbs (brown rice). Add a loonie, and you can substitute tofu for eggs. The vegetarian selection is diverse; there are also gluten-free choices like the Brown Rice Bowl ($9.95) and the popular Good Morning ($6.95) and Good Afternoon ($8.95) Poutine.

My husband Ralph orders Ham, Red Onion and Aged White Cheddar Benny ($11.95). Since there isn’t a separate kid’s menu, he shares his Bennies with Renee and her toddler sibling, Rachel. They end up polishing off their dad’s plate, washing it down with freshly squeezed orange juice ($3.50). Happily full, Rachel wriggles down from her booster seat and scribbles on the large, built-in chalkboard behind our table. Renee inspects the pile of colouring books, retro games (Othello, anyone?) and wooden puzzles in the nook under the stairs. As she colours, she picks at the organic corn tortilla chips on my plate.

Still recovering from the kids’ surprise attack on his meal, Ralph orders the Mexican Meatballs lunch bowl ($11.95), enjoying the spicy kick he gets from the tomato-chipotle soup. By the time we all finish it’s almost noon and if today’s crowd of diners waiting to snag our table is any indication, it won’t be long before this Lady also gets her due. Our advice? Arrive early and bring cash.

PRICE
FUN
TASTE

Originally published in Today's Parent Toronto, December 2009